How and
when do I prune my shrubs?
Time of pruning varies with
plant species. Spring-flowering shrubs (forsythia, deutzia, azalea,
spirea, etc.) are normally pruned after flowering. Pruning
spring-flowering shrubs during the dormant season will remove flower
buds because they bloom on the previous season's growth.
Summer-flowering shrubs (abelia, butterfly bush, crape myrtle, etc.)
generally are pruned during the dormant winter season. For
non-flowering shrubs, the best time for pruning is during the
dormant winter season before growth begins in the spring. Light,
corrective pruning can be done at any time of the year. Avoid heavy
pruning during the late summer and fall because regrowth may occur
and make the plants more susceptible to cold injury.
When pruning, first removed any dead, diseased, or damaged wood.
Then carefully select and remove branches while maintaining the
natural shape of the plant. A good pruning job should not be
conspicuous! There are five basic techniques for pruning shrubs:
1) pinching - removing the tip of a succulent, green shoot before
it becomes woody and firm. Done to reduce length and encourage
branching.
2) heading back - cutting a branch back to a healthy bud or
branch to stimulate growth and increase bushiness.
3) thinning - removing a branch at its point of origin (ground,
parent stem, side branch, etc.) to create a more open plant without
stimulating new growth.
4) renewal pruning (rejuvenation) - removing the oldest branches
by pruning them near the ground, leaving the younger, more vigorous
branches (which may also be pruned). Abelia, deutzia, forsythia,
spirea, and weigela are pruned using this method.
5) shearing - removing the tips of most branches with shearing or
hedge clippers. Shearing should be used sparingly as it destroys the
natural shape of the plant and inhibits light penetration,
eventually causing dieback in the interior of the shrub.
For more information, check out these on-line publications:
How and
when do I prune my trees?
Proper pruning can lengthen a tree's life, increase its value, and
minimize liability problems. Incorrect pruning can cause pest and
decay problems, increased liability (from deadwood, splitting,
etc.), and greatly reduce the tree's life span.
Late dormant season pruning of trees is usually recommended,
although light, corrective pruning (removal of any dead, diseased,
or damaged wood) can be done at any time of the year. Examine the
branch growth pattern along the main trunk. Ideally branch growth
should alternate along the trunk. You should not have two or more
branches attached at the same location along the trunk (except for
trees that produce branches in whorls, such as pines, cedars,
hemlocks, spruces, and firs). Remove branches with a narrow crotch
angle because they are weakly attached to the tree. Prune forks to a
single limb. Trees should never be topped (see the question on
topping).
When making a pruning cut, examine the branch to locate the
branch-bark ridge and the branch collar. The branch-bark ridge is
where the growing, expanding branch and the expanding trunk push up
bark between them into a raised ridge at the base of the branch.
There is a slight swelling on the underside of the branch as it
enters the trunk. The area around and between the branch-bark ridge
and the bottom swelling is called the branch collar. When pruning,
you want to cut the branch but not the branch collar. Cut the base
of the branch at the edge of the collar. Do not flush cut or leave a
long stub. Do not use wound paints because they disrupt the tree's
ability to seal off its wound site.
For more information, check out these on-line publications:
Basic Principles of Pruning Woody Plants What is
causing my shade tree to die back?
Shade tree decline can be caused by a number of factors. One of the
most common errors I see occurs at planting time. Many people plant
trees too deep, which can suffocate the roots. Dig planting holes
2-3 times as wide as the root ball and plant the tree the same depth
as the root ball. Many people plant very large and expensive trees
to get the effect of an "instant landscape". However, large trees
may experience several years of transplant shock because they have
so much more canopy than their roots can support. In the long run,
it may be better to start with a smaller tree and provide good
maintenance.
One of the major causes of tree decline is planting a tree in a
location to which it is not suited: a shade-loving tree in full sun,
a large tree in a confined location, a tree intolerant of air
pollution in an urban landscape, or a tree that prefers well-drained
soil in a swampy area. Choose a tree that is well-adapted to local
conditions.
Other factors which place trees under stress and lead to decline
include drought, pest epidemics, and alterations of natural dainage.
Improper pesticide applications can damage trees. Construction
activities that compact the soil, change the grade, and damage or
suffocate roots are a major cause of tree decline. Often symptoms do
not appear for several years after the trenching or construction
occured. It is important to protect the root zone of the tree all
the way to the dripline to minimize damage from construction or
digging activities.
You must try and determine the stress that is causing decline.
Has there been any recent digging or other activity that damaged the
roots, or improper planting? Is the tree well- adapted to the site?
Drought from years past causes alot of stress., with symptoms often
appearing years later. Examine the leaves for signs of disease or
insect damage (mildew, spots, holes, etc.). If you see evidence of a
pest you may want to call the Extension office for help with
diagnosis.
To prevent tree decline, first choose the appropriate tree for
the site. Follow correct guidelines for planting, fertilization,
pruning, and watering. Avoid wounding the tree with lawn mowers,
equipment, nails, etc. Be careful when applying pesticides around
the tree, especially herbicides which may drift onto the tree or
enter the soil and cause damage. Do not top trees (see question on
topping). Avoid compacting the soil around the root zone.
For more information, check out these on-line publications:
Tree Decline: Causes, Symptoms, and Prevention Why are my
azaleas dying?
Azaleas are susceptible to a number of problems in the landscape.
Phytophthora root rot is a fungal disease that can severely inhibit
plant growth and decrease life span. This disease is favored by high
soil moisture and warm temperatures. Planting azaleas too deep,
overwatering, or excessive rainfall can contribute to root rot. No
effective controls are available for established plantings in home
landscapes. Prevention is the best strategy. Buy disease-free
plants, plant in well-drained areas, avoid planting too deep, and
provide optimal growing conditions. Replace diseased plants with
resistant species.
Azaleas are also susceptible to nematodes, tiny worms that live
in the soil and feed on plant roots. Leaves may turn yellow, plants
may be stunted and gradually die. No effective controls are
available for established plantings in home landscapes. The best
thing you can do is to provide optimal growing conditions (mulch,
partial shade, and appropriate amounts of water and fertilizer).
Phomopsis twig blight is another possibility. This is a fungal
disease that causes wilting or death of branches amd produces a
reddish discoloration under the bark. Prune out and destroy diseased
branches several inches below infected area.
If you suspect disease or nematodes, you may want to submit a
sample to the Cooperative Extension office for diagnosis. To submit
a diseased specimen, bring a quart of soil along with some roots
from the sick plant, as well as a sample of the infected branch and
foliage. Try to bring a sample that is showing symptoms but is not
totally dead. Keep the soil and foliage samples in separate bags to
prevent contamination. It is best to submit samples no later than
Wednesday, so that if they need to be sent to the NCSU diagnostic
lab, they will arrive by the end of the week (a sample that sits
over the weekend often deteriorates so badly it makes diagnosis
difficult).
Improper fertilization can also damage azaleas. Azaleas have
shallow roots so they are susceptible to fertilizer injury. It is
better to apply small amounts of fertilizer in March, May, and July
than to apply all the fertilizer at once.
Voles can also damage azaleas and produce above-ground symptoms.
Check for evidence of vole tunnels under mulch. See the publication
on voles for control strategies. Keep mulch pulled back several
inches away from plant stems to reduce protective cover for the
voles.
For more information, check out these on-line publications:
How do you
control Japanese beetles on ornamentals?
Because Japanese beetles produce large numbers of grubs, the larval
stage of this insect actually causes more damage than the flying
adults. The C-shaped white grubs feed on roots and organic matter in
the soil. The tunneling of the foraging grubs creates a spongy feel
to the soil and turf. Where infestation is heavy, the damaged turf
can be rolled back liked carpet, revealing the feeding grubs
underneath. Grubs burrow deep into the ground to overwinter, and
return to the soil surface in the spring as the soil temperature
warms. Adults emerge in late June or July and begin feeding
immediately. The early arrivals release a congregation pheromone
(odor) which attracts later-emerging adults to gather en masse and
feed on the selected plant. The females will feed, mate, and lay
eggs throughout the summer.
Control efforts can be targeted at both adults and grubs. Plums,
golden sycamores, witchazels, roses, and many varieties of grapes
are particularly attractive to beetles, and you may consider
replacing some of them with non-attractive plants if you are
fighting a losing battle against this pest. The list of
non-attractive plants is lengthy and includes hollies, verbena,
hydrangea, euonymus, coneflower, gardenia, lantana, larkspur,
pyracantha, and many others.
If you are experiencing problems on just a few plants, the adults
can be hand-picked into a jar of soapy water. If your problem is
widespread, then pesticides may be warranted. Liquid Sevin,
malathion, and Orthene (on ornamentals) have proven effective. The
efficacy of traps is debatable, as they often attract more beetles
than they catch. When you peer into the trap and see dozens of
beetles you may think the trap is effective, but you are not seeing
the beetles that were attracted and not trapped. If you do decide to
use a trap, be sure and place it far away from susceptible plants
because the dead beetles release ammonia which repels beetles. The
bait is attractive over fairly long distances, while the ammonia is
repellant to beetles in the vicinity of the trap, so if you don't
empty the trap regularly you will attract more beetles than you
trap.
Grub control is extremely important for effective beetle
management. Soil insecticides such as diazinon can be applied in
late summer or early fall when the grubs are feeding near the soil
surface. Water the lawn thoroughly after application to move the
insecticide down into the soil.
A biological control agent called milky spore disease can be
applied for long-term grub control. Milky spore is a naturally
occurring bacterium that is fatal to Japanese beetle grubs but
harmless to all other organisms. It is applied as a dust or powder
and one application can last in the soil for over 10 years. It may
take 2-3 years for the spore count to build up enough for maximum
results. The larvae become infected with the disease and release
billions of disease spores into the soil when they die. This is why
milky spore will not spread unless grubs are present in the soil.
The more numerous the grubs, the faster the beneficial disease is
established in your lawn. Once the grubs are destroyed, milky spore
lies viable and dormant in the soil, awaiting more grubs.
For more information, check out this on-line publication:
How come
my flowering shrub is not blooming?
There are several reasons plants fail to bloom:
1) over-fertilization with nitrogen: nitrogen stimulates leaf
production and reduces flower production.
2) excess shade: can stunt plants and delay or prevent flower
set.
3) improper pruning: some plants flower on the previous season's
growth, so pruning in early spring removes the flower buds. Prune
spring-flowering plants after they finish flowering. Drastic pruning
can also reduce flowering.
4) cold injury or drought stress: when practical, protect plants
during severe cold spells. Water during drought periods and mulch.
5) incorrect fertility: conduct a soil test to determine if there
are nutrient problems.
6) juvenile plant: some plants will not flower until they reach a
certain age, or until they become established after transplanting.
Return to
What is
causing these tunnels in my lawn?
Moles tunnel in search of insects, earthworms, and beetle grubs. Two
general methods are used to control moles. You can reduce mole
populations directly through trapping or indirectly by reducing the
grubworm population. The best time to trap is in the spring when the
first burrows are noticed or after the first fall rainfall. If a
trap is not sprung in 2 days, move it into another tunnel.
Soil insecticides such as diazinon can be applied in the spring
(April to early May) or late summer through early fall (from August
through October) when the grubs are feeding near the soil surface.
The timing of the insecticide application is critical if control is
to be effective. Pesticides applied any other time will be
ineffective. Water the lawn thoroughly after application to move the
insecticide down into the soil.
A biological control agent called milky spore disease can be
applied for long-term grub control. Milky spore is a naturally
occurring bacterium that is fatal to Japanese beetle grubs but
harmless to all other organisms. It is applied as a dust or powder
and one application can last in the soil for over 10 years. It may
take 2-3 years for the spore count to build up enough for maximum
results. The larvae become infected with the disease and release
billions of disease spores into the soil when they die. This is why
milky spore will not spread unless grubs are present in the soil.
The more numerous the grubs, the faster the beneficial disease is
established in your lawn. Once the grubs are destroyed, milky spore
lies viable and dormant in the soil, awaiting more grubs.
For more information, check out these on-line publications:
Controlling Moles in Home Lawns I planted my
lawn in the spring, and now it is overrun with weeds. What can I do?
The best defense against lawn weeds is a healthy turf. Many people
experience weed problems in newly established lawns because the lawn
never got off to a good start. For example, fescue should be planted
in the fall in North Carolina but is often mistakenly planted in the
spring. The fescue germinates but then doesn't have time to
establish well before the temperature rises and inhibits root growth
(fescue is a cool-season turf and grows best under cooler
temperatures). A hot dry period can severely damage a newly-seeded
fescue lawn, rendering it unable to compete with weeds.
A lawn overrun with weeds indicates less than ideal conditions
for the turf (but perfect conditions for weeds!). Conduct a soil
test to determine lime and fertilizer needs. Check for drainage
problems or excessive shade. Correct any problems and allow your
turf to produce a dense stand and weed problems will be kept in
check. In Lee County, many people have problems with winter annual
weeds on a warm-season turf such as centipede. These weeds may be
unsightly, but since they are growing at a time when the turf is
dormant they are not directly competing with the turf for resources.
Therefore they are not causing much harm. Again, optimizing growing
conditions for the centipede will promote a dense turf and reduce
weed problems in the dormant season.
To control existing weed problems, first identify the type of
weed, then select an appropriate herbicide and use it at the right
time of the year when the weeds are most susceptible. Most
herbicides work best on weeds that are young and actively growing,
but usually weeds are noticed after they have already set seed and
are at the end of their life cycle. This means that you need to map
their locations and be ready with a control strategy early in the
season the following year. Call your local Exension office for help
with weed identification and herbicide recommendation.
Return to
How and
when do I fertilize my lawn?
Fertilizer rates and timing of application vary according to the
type of turfgrass you have. Timing of fertilizer application is
critical to optimal turf growth. Conduct a soil test to determine
lime and fertilizer requirements. Consult the publications listed
below for detailed information on lawn maintenance requirements for
Carolina lawns. A summary of fertilizer requirements follows:
1) Tall fescue: Follow soil test recommendations for type
and amounts of fertilizer. In the absence of a soil test, use a
complete nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium (N-P-K) turf fertilizer with
a 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio (i.e., 12-4-8 or 16-4-8). Fertilize with 1
lb. of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in mid-September,
November, and again in February. Apply lime as recommended by a soil
test.
2) Centipedegrass: Follow soil test recommendations for
type and amounts of fertilizer. In the absence of a soil test,
fertilize with 1/2 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in mid-June
using a high potassium fertilizer (i.e., 5-5-15, 6-6-12, or 8-8-24).
Fertilize with 1 lb. of potash per 1,000 square feet 4-6 weeks
before expected frost using 1.6 lbs. of muriate of potash (0-0-60)
or 2 lbs. of potassium sulfate (0-0-50). Do not lime centipede
unless recommended by a soil test.
3) Bermudagrass: Follow soil test recommendations for type
and amounts of fertilizer. In the absence of a soil test, fertilize
with 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet several weeks after the
grass turns green. In the absence of a soil test, use a complete
nitrogen-phosphorous-potassium (N-P-K) turf fertilizer with a 3-1-2
or 4-1-2 ratio (i.e., 12-4-8 or 16-4-8). Apply 1 lb. of nitrogen per
1,000 square feet every 4-6 weeks up until September. In September,
4-6 weeks before the first frost, apply no more than 1/2 lb. of
nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Use a low-nitrogen, high potassium
fertilizer such as a 5-10-30. Apply lime as recommended by a soil
test.
For more information, check out these on-line publications:
Tall Fescue Lawn Maintenance Calendar How and
when do I prune my fruit trees?
Fruit trees can be pruned during the summer and during the dormant
season. Trees respond very differently to winter (dormant) and
summer pruning. Most people prune during the winter. However, if a
tree is pruned heavily during the winter, it responds by producing
many new, vigorous, upright shoots called watersprouts. Watersprouts
are undesirable because they can shade the fruiting wood of the tree
and have a negative impact on fruit production. Heavy dormant
pruning also promotes excessive vegetative growth at the expense of
fruit production. Correct, light dormant pruning can improve the
shape of the tree, improve light penetration, and increase fruit
production. Dormant pruning should be done after the chance of a
hard freeze has past to avoid winter injury. Late February/early
March is preferable.
Summer pruning should be combined with light dormant pruning for
best results. Summer pruning results in reduced vegetative growth.
Pruning should begin after vegetative growth is several inches long.
Generally summer pruning is limited to removing the upright and
vigorous current season's growth. Use only thinning cuts (removing
the entire branch). Do not prune after July.
It is necessary to choose an appropriate training system for your
fruit tree. There are training systems that are best suited for a
particular fruit crop, but a fruit tree can be trained to any
system. Generally, apples, pears, and pecans are trained to a
central leader. Peaches and nectarines are trained using the open
center system. The publication listed below describes techniques for
each type of pruning. Helpful illustrations provide visual aids.
For more information, check out this on-line publication:
Training & Pruning Fruit Trees How and
when do I prune my grapes?
The key to growing grapes is to unfailingly prune the vines each
year. Muscadines are vigorous vines, and unless you whack them back
in the dormant season, they will yield few grapes. I do not believe
you can hurt a grape vine by severe pruning. Vinifera grapes in
Europe are often pruned to pitiful stumps by generations of
vinedressers, in ancient, yet still productive, vineyards. On the
other hand, to fail to prune inevitably brings a tangled mass of
unfruitful, diseased wood.
Pruning should be done in February or early March. Many people
become alarmed when the vines "bleed" after pruning, but bleeding
does not harm the vines.
Whether you train your vine to a wire, an arbor, a fence, or a
Geneva Double Curtain, the principles of grape pruning are the same:
first, know where and how the fruit is borne. Grapes clusters arise
on new shoots that come from the previous season's shoots only. This
year's grapes will come from new wood. This wood will be light tan
in color, and will have visible buds where the leaves were attached.
This new wood is called a fruiting spur.
Old wood on the grape vine does not bear fruit, but supports
spurs which do. Parallel lines of old wood should be thinned to one
old branch ('arm' or 'branch' or 'cordon') every 18" or so, along
some means of support. Training systems rely on parallel wires or
boards spaced evenly to support one, and only one, permanent arm of
old wood.
Neglected vines that have been unpruned for several years present
a dilemma: you can revive the old arm by shortening it and removing
newer competitors, or you can sacrifice the old arm and promote a
promising younger shoot. Choose the healthier arm that supports the
best looking spurs.
Once you have removed competing arms, prune spurs. Cut back all
spurs to one or two buds (4" is an approximate length). You need one
spur every 4". Remove the rest. Remove any tendrils girdling vines.
In grape vine pruning, the more removed the better.
The Lee Counter Center of the Cooperative Extension Service has a
video on grape pruning. Call 775-5624 or stop by our office if you
would like to borrow it.
For more information, check out these on-line publications:
Muscadine Grapes in the Home Garden What are
these spots on my tomato leaves?
Early blight is caused by a fungus that produces leaf, stem, and
fruit lesions. Leaf spots can start out brownish-black and then
expand to show concentric zones with a yellow halo. Septoria leaf
spot is another fungus that produces symptoms characterized by
numerous small gray or yellow circular leaf spots with dark borders,
and may have yellow halos. The fungus that causes gray leaf spot
produces angular-shaped lesions.
Once a disease is present, your only option is to slow the rate
of disease transmission. Scout your garden regularly and remove
infected leaves or plants because they provide inoculum for the
disease to spread. Don't plant your tomatoes in the same spot you
planted them last year. Fungi can overwinter in the soil and be
ready to pounce the next time you plant an unsuspecting tomato
seedling. Many diseases are host-specific to tomatoes and will not
infect unrelated species (hint: tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and
eggplants are all related species). Splashing water can help spread
fungal diseases, so only water the root zone of the plant and avoid
wetting the foliage. Mulching and staking can help reduce the
splashing effects of rain or irrigation.
Unlike soil-borne diseases which infect stem tissue, foliar
diseases don't normally kill the plant but they can decrease yield.
Fungicides that contain chlorothalonil or mancozeb can be used to
control leaf spot diseases. Make sure that the product you select
lists tomato on the label, and follow label directions carefully.
Organic gardeners can use a copper compound such as a Bordeaux
mixture as a fungicide.
For more information, check out this on-line publication:
Diseases of Home Garden Tomatoes What is
causing my tomato to wilt?
The primary diseases that cause wilting are southern blight,
southern bacterial wilt, and tomato spotted wilt. The first
above-ground symptom of southern blight is plant wilting, which is
caused by stem rot at the soil line. Small, mustard seed-sized
sclerotia (reproductive structures) form on the lower stem.
Southern bacterial wilt is more common on tomatoes later in the
season. It is characterized by sudden plant wilting in the absence
of leaf yellowing. Late blight can be a problem later in the season
in wet weather.
Tomato spotted wilt is a virus that is transmitted by tiny
insects called thrips that feed on infected leaves. Symptoms of
tomato spotted wilt virus include leaf discoloration, necrosis
(dieback) of upper branches and leaves, and eventual collapse of the
entire plant. There may be some wilting.
In any disease control program, the first line of defense is
prevention. Employ proper cultural practices to ensure the
healthiest, most vigorous plant possible. A non-stressed plant is
better able to resist pests and disease-causing pathogens. Resistant
varieties can provide control of some diseases including
verticillium wilt, fusarium wilt, and tobacco mosaic virus.
Currently, there are no good varieties resistant to southern
bacterial wilt, southern blight, or late blight.
Once a disease is present, your only option is to slow the rate
of disease transmission. Scout your garden regularly and remove
infected leaves or plants because they provide inoculum for the
disease to spread. Don't plant your tomatoes in the same spot you
planted them last year. Fungi can overwinter in the soil and be
ready to pounce the next time you plant an unsuspecting tomato
seedling. Many diseases are host-specific to tomatoes and will not
infect unrelated species (hint: tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, and
eggplants are all related species). Splashing water can help spread
fungal diseases, so only water the root zone of the plant and avoid
wetting the foliage. Mulching and staking can help reduce the
splashing effects of rain or irrigation. If the disease is
transmitted by an insect, control of the insect vector is important.
Unfortunately, it is extremely difficult to control thrips,
especially if you are a home gardener. Discard the infected plants
along with their thrips vectors by placing a large trash bag over
the infected plant and removing it.
For more information, check out this on-line publication:
Diseases of Home Garden Tomatoes How do I
get rid of crickets inside my home?
Extremes in weather conditions, i.e, excessive rainfall or extended
periods of hot, dry weather, often brings complaints of camel
crickets invading homes. Like many insect pests, camel crickets are
attracted to harborage sites, i.e., cool, moist areas in and around
the home. Although pesticides can help reduce the nuisance problems
with camel crickets, they are not a long-term solution. Effective
control starts with removing harborage sites and by excluding these
insects from our homes:
1. Caulk or seal gaps and openings around window frames, doors,
foundation and clothes dryer vents, soffits, as well as heating/AC
and plumbing lines.
2. Install weather-stripping along the bottom of house and garage
doors so that it fits tightly against the threshold.
3. Stack boxes and other items off of the ground and away from
the walls in a garage or storage building. This helps improve
airflow and makes it easier to check for crickets and other pests,
including termites.
4. Reduce moisture indoors and in the crawlspace and attic. This
usually involves improving ventilation.
5. Keep leaf mulch and wood/bark chips at least 12 inches or more
away from the foundation.
6. Keep ground cover and shrubs away from the foundation and
siding.
7. Keep firewood stacked away from the house.
8. Remove piles of lumber or other clutter that attract crickets
and other pests.
9. Place sticky boards, such as those used for cockroaches and
mice, in corners and behind appliances to catch crickets that enter
your home.
Pesticides applied outdoors to foundation walls, around vents,
crawlspace accesses, basement doors and windows, and insecticidal
baits applied along the perimeter can be quite effective unless
there are heavy rains. Diazinon, Dursban, and boric acid baits are
labeled for use outdoors for camel cricket control. Read and follow
all label instructions.
For more information, check out this on-line publication:
Camel Crickets How do I
control ticks around my home?
How can you protect yourself from ticks? If possible, avoid walking
through uncut fields, brush, and other areas likely to harbor ticks.
Walk in the center of mowed trails to avoid brushing up against
vegetation. Wear long pants tucked into socks and tuck your shirt
into your pants. Light-colored clothing makes tick detection easier.
Insect repellants can be applied to exposed areas. Keep grass mowed
and clear overgrown vegetation from the edges of your property.
Pesticides can be used to control severe tick infestations in
outdoor areas around the home. Sevin and Dursban are labeled for
tick control in the home landscape. Apply the pesticide uniformly
according to label directions and make sure to keep children and
pets away until the treated areas have dried.
If you have been in a tick-infested area, inspect yourself and
your pets twice a day so that you can reduce the chance of a tick
becoming attached. The longer a tick is attached, the greater the
chance it can transmit disease. Control ticks on your pets using a
tick collar or some other method recommended by your veterinarian.
If you find an attached tick, DO NOT try to dislodge it with a
match or cleaning fluid or any other home remedy. This will
certainly kill the tick but will make it difficult to remove the
tick intact. Disease organisms can escape a ruptured tick and cause
infection. Using tweezers or your fingers (protected with a tissue),
grasp the body of the tick and pull directly away from the point of
attachment with gradually increasing force until the tick is free.
Do not jerk or twist as this may cause the tick's mouthparts to
break off in the skin. Wash the bite area with soap and water and
apply an antiseptic. Mark the date of the bite on a calendar so that
if you develop symptoms of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever or Lyme
disease, you will be able to tell your physician when you were
bitten. You can also save the tick in a vial of alcohol in case
identification is required.
Symptoms of Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever include headache, fever,
chills, pains, and nausea. Sometimes a rash appears on the wrists
and ankles. Lyme disease develops in three stages. Stage I involves
rash and flu-like symptoms such as fatigue, headache, stiff neck,
and muscle ache. A rash may develop at the site of the tick bite in
some (but not all) patients. Stage II includes cardiac and
neurological symptoms such as dizziness, shortness of breath,
irregular heartbeat, and brain and nerve inflammation. Arthritic
problems may develop during Stage III. The important thing to
remember is that both of these diseases can be treated effectively
with antibiotics if they are diagnosed early, so be aware of the
symptoms and record all tick bites.
For more information, check out this on-line publication (see
last section on Mosquitoes and Ticks):
Biting and Stinging Pests
