SUZANNE STALLINGS
Contents
Shoot Growth and Apical
Dominance
General Responses to
Pruning
Types of Pruning Cuts
Healing Response
to Pruning
Time for Pruning
Summary
Pruning is one of the most important
cultural practices for maintaining woody plants, including ornamental
trees and shrubs, fruits and nuts. It involves both art and science: art
in making the pruning cuts properly, and science in knowing how and when
to prune for maximum benefits.
There are numerous reasons for pruning.
Sometimes you want to train or direct the growth of plants into a
particular form or a specified space, like a formal hedge. Or you may
want to prune mature plants to control their size and shape, as in the
case of fruit trees that are pruned low to the ground to aid picking or
hedge plants pruned at a particular height. For fruiting plants, pruning
plays an important role in improving overall fruit quality, primarily by
increasing light penetration into the tree.
Unfortunately, many people approach
pruning with a great deal of apprehension. Others view pruning as a
chore and give little forethought to technique as they hastily do the
job. Proper pruning requires a basic understanding of how plants respond
to various pruning cuts. The principles and guidelines in this
publication will help you master common pruning techniques.
Shoot Growth and Apical Dominance
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Figure 1. Current season's growth.
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Figure 1a. Close-up of a node.
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You can partly determine the
characteristic shape and size of a woody plant and its response to
pruning by the plant's natural pattern of shoot growth. When a seed
germinates and grows, only one growing point exists, the apex or
terminal bud (Fig. 1). When a terminal bud begins growing after
being dormant, it leaves a bud scale scar on the branch. You can use the
scars to determine the age of a limb or tree by counting the scars. As
the new shoot elongates, structures called nodes are formed. A
node is the area on the shoot where a leaf is attached (Fig. 1a).
One to three lateral buds are produced at each of these nodes.
Growth of lateral buds is directed by the terminal bud, which produces a
hormone called auxin. Auxin moves downward in the shoot (toward
the Earth's center) from the shoot apex and inhibits the growth and
development of lateral buds (Fig. 2). This phenomenon is called
apical dominance.
The intensity of apical dominance varies
from one plant species to another. Some plants suppress the growth of
their lateral buds until the second growing season; others develop both
lateral shoots and terminal buds during the first growing season. Apical
dominance influences not only the number of shoot-forming lateral buds
and the lengths of lateral shoots formed but also the angle at which the
shoots emerge from the main limb.
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Figure 2. Apical dominance
and its effects.
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Figure 3. Limb orientation
affects apical dominance.
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The orientation of a limb or shoot along
the main branch has a major influence on growth by its effect on apical
dominance (Fig. 3). Because auxin moves downward in the shoot toward the
Earth's center, apical dominance is strongest in vertical or upright
shoots or limbs. In vertical limbs, vigorous shoot growth occurs near
the terminal bud with lateral shoots becoming more sparse with
increasing distance from the apex. On the other hand, orientation of
lateral branches at 45° to 60° angles from the vertical or main shoot
reduces the vigor of shoot growth near the apex and increases the number
and length of laterals along the limb further from the apex. On
horizontal limbs, apical dominance is totally lost. Without apical
dominance to control their growth, lateral buds on the upper side of
horizontal limbs develop into vigorous, upright shoots, called water
sprouts. As they develop, water sprouts show very strong apical
dominance. Water sprouts are a common problem on the upper surface of
flat limbs in fruit trees and are removed by pruning.
General Responses to Pruning
Pruning is an invigorating process (Fig.
4). By removing the apex, pruning temporarily destroys apical dominance
and stimulates the growth of lateral buds into shoots.
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| Figure 4. Pruning
stimulates lateral shoot growth close to the cut. |
Pruning also reduces the size of the
above-ground portion of the plant in relation to the root system (Fig.
5). As a result, the undisturbed root system services a smaller number
of shoots and buds. The relative uptake of water and nutrients by the
remaining shoots and buds increases, and a flush of growth (regrowth)
occurs.
Generally, the more severe the pruning (greater size or number of limbs
removed), the greater the resulting regrowth. In essence, the plant is
regrowing in an attempt to restore a balance between the top and the
root system.
Pruning generally stimulates regrowth
near the cut (Fig. 6). Vigorous shoot growth will usually occur within 6
to 8 inches of the pruning cut. This is particularly true for vertical
limbs that have been pruned (Fig. 6a). However, regrowth on limbs having
a 45° to 60° angle from the vertical will develop farther away from the
cut (Fig. 6b).
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Figure 5. Pruning reduces the
top in relation to the root system.
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Figure 6. Pruning stimulates
growth closest to the cut in vertical shoots; farther away
from cuts in limbs 45° to 60° from vertical.
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Pruning also may indirectly stimulate
growth of lateral shoots by allowing more light to penetrate the canopy
of the plant.
Pruning a young plant will stimulate
vigorous shoot growth and will delay the development of flowers and
fruit. The length of the delay, of course, will depend on the species
pruned and the severity of the pruning.
Types of Pruning Cuts
There are two basic types of pruning
cuts, heading and thinning (Fig. 7). Each results in a
different growth response and has specific uses.
Heading removes the
terminal portion of shoots or limbs (Fig. 7). By removing apical
dominance, heading stimulates regrowth near the cut. It also is the most
invigorating type of pruning cut, resulting in thick compact growth and
a loss of natural form, as in the case of a formally pruned hedge.
Sometimes ornamental shrubs along a foundation overgrow their planting
space and are rejuvenated by heading to within 12 inches of ground
level. Many broadleaf shrubs such as burford holly, ligustrum, abelia
and crape myrtle tolerate this type of pruning. Other types of heading
are topping, dehorning, hedging and clipping.
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Figure 7. Heading removes a
part of a shoot or limb.
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Figure 7a. Thinning removes
the entire shoot or limb.
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Thinning, on the other
hand, removes an entire shoot or limb to its point of origin from the
main branch or lateral (Fig. 7a). Some shoot tips are left
undistributed, so apical dominance is maintained. As a result, new
growth occurs at the undisturbed shoot tips while lateral bud
development and regrowth is suppressed.
Thinning is generally the least invigorating type of pruning cut and
provides a more natural growth form of plants. Important in maintenance
pruning, thinning cuts are used to shorten limbs, to improve light
penetration into plants and to direct the growth of shoots or limbs.
Drop-crotching, a form of
thinning used to reduce the size of large trees, involves the removal of
a main branch (or leader) by cutting it back to a large, lateral branch
(Fig. 8a). The cut through the main branch is made parallel to the angle
of the remaining lateral. When removing large tree limbs, a series of
three cuts are recommended in order to avoid tearing the bark along the
main truck and severely wounding the tree (Fig. 8b). One undesirable
form of thinning is the bench cut, where a vigorous upright limb
is thinned to horizontal limb (Fig. 9).
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Figure 8. Types of thinning
cuts: (a) drop crotching and (b) limb removal.
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Figure 9. Compare branch cut
(left) with correct method (right).
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Vigorous, upright shoot growth, called
water sprouts, often result from the "bench" area because of the absence
of apical dominance in the horizontal limb. Such regrowth is weak and
often results in an undesirable umbrella-shaped plant. The correct
method is to make the thinning cuts to limbs that are similar in angle
to the limb being removed but not greater than 45° to 60° from vertical.
Shoots or limbs having narrow-angled
crotches are weaker than those having wide crotch angles (Fig. 10). The
bark of the adjoining branches becomes tightly compressed or "included,"
preventing normal wood development. Winter ice, trapped down in
crotches, often causes narrow-angled branches to split.
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Figure 10. Wide crotches
(left) are stronger than weak, narrow crotches (right).
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Figure 11. Areas of cambium
important for healing: (a) bark ridge and (b) collar tissue.
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Healing Response to Pruning
Healing naturally follows pruning or
wounding. It starts in the cambium, a thin layer of cells between the
wood and bark. Two areas of the cambium, the bark ridge at the
junction of two limbs, and the branch collar, a ring of slightly
raised tissue where the lateral branch joins the main limb, function to
close off the wound between the plant and the pruning cut. For fastest
healing, prune close to the main branch without injuring the bark ridge
or branch collar areas (Fig. 11). Leaving a stub will slow healing and
invite decay. Wound dressings or pruning paint are cosmetic and do
little to promote healing of the pruned area.
Time for Pruning
| Prune After
Flowering |
Prune Before
Spring Growth Begins |
Azalea
Beautybush
Bigleaf Hydrangea
Bradford Pear
Bridalwreath Spirea
Clematis
Climbing Roses
Crabapple
Deutzia
Dogwood
Doublefile Vibernum
Flowering Almond
Flowering Cherry
Flowering Quince
Forsythia
Japanese Kerria
Japanese Pieris
Lilac
Mockorange
Oakleaf Hydrangea
Pearlbush
Pyracantha
Redbud
Saucer Magnolia
Star Magnolia
Shrub Honeysuckle
Thunberg Spirea
Vanhoutte Spirea
Weigelia
Winter Daphne
Wisteria
Witchhazel |
Beautyberry
Camellia
Goldenrain Tree
Chaste Tree (Vitex)
Cranberrybush Viburnum
Crapemyrtle
Floribunda Roses
Fragrant Tea Olive
Gloss Abelia
Grandiflora Roses
Japanese Barberry
Japanese Spirea
Mimosa
Nandina
Rose-of-Sharon (Althea)
Sourwood
Anthony Waterer Spirea
Sweetshrub |
Time of pruning varies with plant
species. Prune at times that best complement the growth characteristics,
flowering, and other objectives you desire.
Many woody ornamentals are pruned
according to their date of flowering. For example, spring-flowering
plants, such as dogwood or forsythia, normally are pruned after they
bloom. Pruning spring-flowering shrubs during the dormant season will
remove flower buds formed the previous fall. Summer-flowering plants
generally are pruned during the dormant winter season. If plants are not
grown for their flowers, the best time for pruning is during the dormant
winter season before new growth begins in the spring. Avoid heavy
pruning during the late summer and fall because regrowth may occur and
make the plants more susceptible to cold injury. Peach trees, for
example, should not be pruned from October through January.
Some plants bleed heavily after pruning.
Bleeding is unsightly but not usually harmful. Trees subject to bleeding
should be pruned in the late spring or early summer when leaves are on
the tree. Actively growing leaves tend to reduce the amount of bleeding
from pruning cuts and allow the cuts to heal more quickly. Plants that
bleed readily include willows, birches, maples, beeches and dogwoods.
Summary
Pruning is an invaluable tool for
developing and maintaining woody plants. Developing clear pruning
objectives is important. By combining these objectives with a basic
understanding of pruning and how plants respond, you can derive maximum
benefit from the effort.
Several key points concerning the use of pruning in woody plants are
summarized below.
- Pruning is an invigorating process,
stimulating regrowth in proportion to pruning severity. Light annual
pruning is better than periodical severe pruning.
- The two basic types of pruning cuts
are heading and thinning. Thinning cuts are the least invigorating
type of cut and are the most effective pruning cut for maintaining
woody plants in their natural form.
- Pruning, particularly heading cuts,
stimulates regrowth very close to the pruning cut. Heading cuts,
such as topping, dehorning and hedging, often are misused and
destroy the natural shape of plants because they stimulate regrowth
near pruning cuts.
- Bench cuts, pruning upright limbs
back to flat limbs, result in vigorous regrowth and weak limbs.
Instead, thin out limbs leaving those oriented at a 45° to 60° angle
from vertical.
- Pruning time should be dictated by
specific requirements or characteristics of the plant such as
flowering date, susceptibility to cold weather, etc.
- Wounds heal fastest when pruning
does not disturb important areas of cambium such as the bark ridge
and branch collar. Wound dressing is cosmetic and does not promote
healing.
- All too often, improper pruning
techniques seriously damage or kill woody plants. If you wish to
have woody plants properly maintained, personally supervise or
conduct the pruning operation.

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